Falling in love...all over again...

The sun was burning down in all its mid-day August glory ... one of those hot scorching days when the heat lies about like a thick cloak, like something you can feel, and if you move your finger in a slicing motion, you can feel the air molecules actually rearrange themselves... only it was an air-conditioned car, but in your head, you could still feel the hear. The mood was restive...it was a long day and an even longer journey, beginning the mid-night before... a sleepless train ride and a long car journey there after... the silence was heavy, weighed down by sulks and the aftertaste of a tiff... the industrial highways of Italy overshadowing the distant hills, raising doubts and offering no respite.

And all it took was a single breathtaking view!

It was like falling in love all over again...

Falling slowly, eyes that know me
And I can't go back
Moods that take me and erase me
And I'm painted black
............

Our own farmhouse apartment for a few days

The view from the window

Our backyard...

Hitchhiking to Pienza, Tuscany

“Yes... I hike to Pienza...it take around an hour from here...”, said Claudia, who was stretched out on the sun bed, lounging under the lazy evening sun, with her palms shading her eye from the sun as she looked up to me. “Really?”, I asked and she says “Si, Si”. I wasn’t so sure, but if it was an hour’s hike one way, it didn’t sound too bad... And that is how i found myself hiking to Pienza on one day in Tuscany. But, boy, had she underestimated the time or I had underestimated her... definitely the former I think!

It was a great morning... the sun not strong still and a nice cool breeze... An hour later, I had just reached the crossroad leading to Pienza... and guess what???? The signboard was showing another good 10kms away... (note to self, if it looks far, it probably is! And have the sense to double check!!).

On the way to Pienza

The weather was still good, I was enjoying fantastic views... but soon the sun would be blazing down on me... and I had to pick up my speed. Plus, all the photography was slowing down, (yes, I was trying to get some timer snaps of myself with the landscape... lame, right??). I was tiring myself out a bit, and also partly dreaming of the previous day when I too had lounged on a sun bed in the balcony, with a book and little else to do... But it wasn’t until I came really close to the town, I gave up hope!!! You see, all these towns are perched on hilltops, and the last leg is the hardest...

And up went my hand, sticking out a thumb for a ride...

An abandoned farm house?

A young couple in a car... they wave to me, but won’t stop

A family... this time no wave even!

A slightly beaten up car and a little hippy looking old couple... but there was a lady... so thumbs up again....Voila! they pull over and I am very, very, very grateful (cannot overstate it enough!!!)... we chat a bit , and they are quite cool!!! They speak very good English, couldn’t yet figure out if they are settled here or on vacation...The lady does warn me that she see’s many tourists doing “this” and says, it’s not safe... before I can figure out if she means the long hike in the midday sun or just the hitchhiking, we are in Pienza.

After a bit of a search for the food, I have one of the MOST DELICIOUS ravioli’s in my LIFE!!!! Only 3 piece of the pillow pasta, in a bed of olive oil rather than the usual cream sauce... my first thought was dismay at the paltry portions, but it was Yummmy and also filling!!!

yummm!

Emboldened by my first hitchhiking experience, I decide to do that on my way back too...

My first ride is an old Italian man in a beat up car...I was a bit tired, and lowered by rules a bit (of ensuring at least one woman in the car. He was old, so I let it go...). He spoke only Italian, I spoke only English and well, he rattled on. He did pat me on my knees a couple of times as he discoursed on heartily... (having seen some Italian men, would definitely NOT believe it was grandfatherly)... Anyways, I was a little relieved to get off.

My last ride was a biker...I later realized he wasn’t even going the way I needed to go, but took the trouble. He owned a farm nearby too and we chatted a bit (as much as you can with the wind howling as you race through). It was wonderful racing down those roads on a bike, with the wind in your hair, refreshing me after a hot, sweaty day.

And I was home!

A note of caution: Hitchhiking was a fun experience, something I didn’t plan for, but happened. Sorry to sound like a grandmother and be melodramaitc, but I CANNOT OVEREMPHASIZE enough ON SAFETY OVER ADVENTURE any day. Hitchhiking can be fun, but please, please be careful!

The Tuscan slopes... you haven't heard the last of it!


Views along the way


Views along the way


Views along the way

Searching for the best Neapolitan in town

Everty time I start to think I need to catch up on my posts on my Italy trip last year, I don’t know why, but I get this huge writer’s block. There is so much to tell and I don’t know where to start –that’s the trouble with long trips, I guess. I have an abyssimal 2 posts... So I am starting with 3 random experiences....or less, depending on when my word count runs out of steam.

* * *

One evening in Naples, we set off in search of the best Neapolitan pizza in Naples. We were recommended to Il Presidente in the centro storico (city center). The road was narrow, and quite deserted, but the Pizzeria was buzzing with people spilling out into the roads. It seemed a bit like Bade miaan (for those who are familiar with Mumbai).

As we queued up, we got a terribly huge token number. We first tried to find out how long that may be – everyone around us spoke only Italian, and we spoke only English. The token-giver would answer emphatically in a string of Italian with so much gusto that it could have been an ebullient answer just as it could have easily been a string of curses. Next we tried to enquire what pizzas were available in a mix of mime, English all in between sheepish laughter. The token-giver would reply and we would spend the next 10 minutes deciphering it. This went on for a bit. At some point, I think he understood what we were asking and made some reference to the pizzeria not being McD’s. We could hear the group around us breaking into laughter. We were lost – for the first time, ordering a pizza seemed like the most complicated thing.

We then tried to ask him if we could do a take away and he kept waving his hands and saying dopo, dopo. So far it had sounded like he was just being a loud, expressive man, and suddenly we wondered if he was insulting us – what with his multiple referrences to McD and him shooing us away. We were embarrassed slowly moving to being on the brink of serious frustration. And just like that my friend was suddenly incensed! We decided we didn't want the best pizza that bad after all if they couldn't even help us decently! And just like that we walked off in a huff!!!

So much for the perfect pizza!

Don’t worry.... in the last one hour on our last day, we decided we needed to give one more shot at having a true Neapolitan. We tracked down the second recommendation given to us – Da Michelle - which was spartan, white and almost like a hospital cafeteria in looks. Here, they serve only 2 types of pizzas (the Neapolitan and Margherita). We ordered the double cheese margherita , lightly flavoured in basil and oozing olive oil.... truly divine!!!

We later found out, the Dopo, dopo may have just meant later later!

Naples is considered the home of Pizza. The Neapolitan is particularly known for also the tomato toppings that goes on pizza (I understand). Both Il Presidente and Da Michelle are recommended in the lonely planet. Da Michelle is also the pizzeria featured in the Eat Pray Love movie.

PS: I swear, there were supposed to be 3... but will rein in word count on the next 2!

PS 2: Yes, I did put on a few kilos after the trip!!!

The crowds outside Da Michelle

A divine margherita

And so, we did a takeaway and ate by the roadside

Discovering Bernini's

I went to Rome, and I discovered Bernini’s.

Walking into Piazza Navona, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi or the fountain of the four rivers is the most central piece of the square. Four powerful men, sculpted in a circle representing and celebrating the worlds’ four great rivers of those time – Ganges, Nile, Danube and Plate – and a an obelisk right in the center. Standing beneath the fountain – I was amazed by the gigantic proportions... (everything in Rome is so gigantic) and impressed by its magnificence. Needless to say, the concept of a dedication to 4 rivers was a beautiful one.

Piazza Navona at night

The next time I came up close with a Bernini sculpture was in the Villa Borghese in Rome. Pluto, is holding or rather carrying Persephone, like he doesn’t want to let her go. His hand is circled around her and holding her above, catching her in her hip and thigh, and denting her soft, smooth flesh as his fingers press into her. The force in holding her is etched in his stance, in his every taut muscle. I was stumped. Persephone is pushing away from him - I just couldn’t understand why! Her toes are delicately curled, to show her distraught it seemed. Even the swing of her hair, the tendrils of his beard capture the struggle. The intenseness, and the power of the moment so beautifully captured in an inanimate sculpture.

I couldn’t look away.

Ratto di Proserpina. This image is taken from http://www.storiadellarte.com

The sculpture is Ratto di Proserpina or Rape of Persephone, based on the story of her abduction. (I have a strong dislike of the word, and am happy that may be the word wasn’t intended in its crudest). Wiki says(according to one of the legends), she was picking flowers with other nymphs when Hades aka Pluto abducted her. Although she was later returned, she was tricked into eating a few pomegranate seed and therefore is tied to the Underworld. So she returns every year in winter to Hades and the Underworld; during which time her mother doesn’t allow crops to prosper until Persephone returns to her.

Bernini was 23 when he produced this masterpiece. And I was in love with it.

There is so much Art in Italy that it can overwhelm you. As an uninitiated person to art, I didn’t expect to find something that would thrill me this much. Bernini’s work is all over Rome. You can’t miss the imposing double colonnade in the Vatican City. You are likely to run across the cute (but also forlorn, I thought) Elephant in the vicinity of the Pantheon. If you like these Bernini’s, I would definitely recommend a stop at Villa Borghese to see Ratto di Proserpina and the equally impressive Apollo and Daphne.

This was a guest blog post and can also be found here.

The moment when it started

We were back from an unexciting day at Skofja Loka (a nearby sleepy village), and making it to some of the landmarks for last photos. Eventually we found our way back to Presern’s square (the most important, central square in Ljubljana).

Six o clock at Preseren is bustling. After a cloudy day, the sun was finally out, warming us all up. People walking past or cycling by, some sipping their coffee, tourists just hanging around at the foot of the statue, parents with strollers, shoppers... A street musician was playing and a small crowd was gathering. And then he struck the chords for ‘My girl’.

Preseren square in the evening

We had had a bit of grey weather in the first few days. And then, I had gotten to know that an exam I had given hadn’t gone for the best. Funny how such a small thing can come snowballing and make you see things in extreme gloom.

And then as the song began, it felt like – so what? Here I was in one of the prettiest, liveliest squares, - one of the most ‘realest’ squares filled with people who actually lived, and worked and belonged to Ljubljana. I imagine I would have been doing exactly this on any other evening if I was living in the city - walking by the square, stopping to see the river, catch a glimpse of the evening sun and soaking in the life in general. The sun was warming me to the core. I had a slight buzz from the bookshop I had dropped into, and the couple of books I had picked up. And then there was the song calling to me. I think that was the moment when I felt, yes I am here, here now. The moment when it felt like the trip was beginning to take off.

The triple bridge

Preseren’s square is not the most remarkable or even bigger squares in Europe. But what is nice is that it is a part of the daily life of Ljubljana rather than just being on the tourist trail. We saw a few girls with H&M bags and decided to ask them where the store was. They laughed, “Oh you caught us. Don’t worry we’ve left something for you”. The square is along the river Ljubljana’s banks, with landmarks like the Franciscan church, Triple bridge (Tromostovje). Preseren is a national poet who wrote the Slovenian anthem and his statue stands tall in the square. Story goes, he is looking across the square at the building of his lady love.

Preseren and his Muse

Us just hanging out

Later that evening, after some shopping at H&M, we stopped by a cafe offering apperitivos - it means drinks, but typically many cafe’s offer a filling but free plate of side eats. We had been looking for these bars/restaurants in Venice, but found these first in Ljubljana. Our first day in Ljubljana had started off in Preseren Square – where our walking tour began. On our last, we left with a glorious final image of the square blazing in lights at night.

Night lights

All roads lead to Italy

... or so it seems! Every time I mentioned to someone that I was planning a vacation to Italy, either they were also planning or knew someone who was going there. :) Well, my road is now taking me to Italy, and taking me there quite soon - and I can't wait!

It's been a packed last few weeks - goodbyes to old friends (an end which seemed to arrive even before it started it seems), a girls weekend to sula, planning (and going mad in the process) of the Italy itinerary, wading through one of the busiest cycle of work, and all this amidst different personal crises. However, now that I am here, the crazy dash to the finish line seems good!

Anyway, goodbye for now and see you on the other side!

Eastern Europe 2009 - a journey begins

I am back, I am back, I am back! And actually not all that excited to be back. It’s been 2 weeks since my 18-day vacation got over- the first week was sleep deprived with a lot of work, the second week has been me battling my cold. And still, even as all these mundane of my life overpower me back to reality, I can still close my eyes and transport myself to the time when I was swimming in the aquamarine seas, or the time we cycled downhill at wind-breaking speeds.

Where do I start? Despite my disgruntled mood at the outset, and a lot of shakeups to our plans, the trip was fabulous. It was quintessential Europe –soaking in the architecture, revelling equally in old, weighty buildings as well as the charming rustic villages, walking around old town squares till our feet hurt, lounging in cafes. But also more!

It’s hard to put in words what I imagined about Eastern Europe. Places like Prague and Croatia definitely had that magical quality about them, and partly because they were lesser trodden. I knew they were “developing” vs being the developed. I had heard that their trains and buses and transport aren’t as good as in the West. I had heard the people can be a little cold. I wasn’t sure if poverty was an issue the way it is in India or not really. All these tit bits don’t give a picture by themselves, but tend to be a downer and make you a bit wary. But don't worry! From the word go, these cities rid you of these distortions.

From the moment we stepped on Prague, from the airport to the metro, all we could think of was this doesnt feel like what Eastern Europe should feel like (That’s also because Czech replaced its age old communist era train system in 2000 after a flood). Croatia was like a resort, and may be off the lot, Bratislava showed a bit of wear.

One of the streets in the old town square, Czech

Yes, some of the things used to describe Eastern Europe is true and I agree, countries like Czech may have come a long way ahead than others. Alright, everyone on the road doesn’t stop to smile at you, but that is likely true of UK too. They don’t have TGV’s, but their trains were still OK and on time!!! I didn’t notice a single homeless person in Prague like you see in New York (and of course India), but our walking tour guide did mention there were druggies who begged for money. And of course, coming from India, really, it seemed almost ridiculous to be apprehensive, and they seem light years ahead in infrastructure.

Street outside my room, Czech

Need you ask? I am telling everyone to go to Czech and Croatia and Eastern Europe, especially before they join the Euro regime :).

And yes, I have so more tales to tell, if you will only listen. Till I can sort all that out in my head, I’ll leave you with some initial glimpses of the places I’ve been to.

Stone alleyway, Croatia

The Euro Trip...

Ok. I have been waiting to do this post for a long time now. And i’ve pushed it far enough (for the fear of jinxing the trip) just till everything fell into place. Which it almost did – until it fell apart this morning. Hehe - so much for waiting for the perfect moment huh? So no better time like now.

In a few hours, I leave for Prague with my friend (yeaaay!!!) – which is where our official Europe trip starts. I’ve been researching Europe for a while now, and somehow after always finding reasons to push it out, this year I thought I have to make it happen. I was contemplating travelling alone – but I doubt I would have really done that. And so, when my friend also joined in, there was no turning back.

Czech had caught my fancy at a time when it was still offbeat. And though it is definitely mainstream now (I personally have heard of quite a few people who have been there this year), it hasn’t lost its sheen in my eyes. I can’t remember how I zeroed in on Croatia - probably when my other friend said that she finds beaches more exciting that architecture. Vienna was added in because it was on my friends wishlist and Bratislava as a transit point.

So, it came together as Česká republika, Österreich, Slovensko and Hr̀vātskā. (Don't you love the way the names roll off your tongue???)

We were tightly timing our visas and it seemed every possible delay was going to happen to our visas. The schengen which should have been a cake walk, took a few days longer. Every extra day the schengen took, meant lesser days for the Croatian. The Croatian – well, what should have happened on Monday, was magically pushed out by another day and another day. Finally – yesterday we were relieved. The Croatian visa had been stamped. Only, to find today, when we got our passports in hand, that our Croatian visa falls short by 2 days!@#$%!!!!

Our final flight is from Croatia to Mumbai – and so now we have to rework that. Most of all – of all the places, I’ve been really excited about Croatia and i had almost transported myself to its beaches and it seemed like a fitting end. Now the visa not only cuts our time in Croatia from 6-7 days to just 3 days, but also messes up our last few days.

The entire day, I don’t think i really believed this was happening and expected that magical last-minute-things-fall-into-place-end would be the end. But that isn’t our end and I am a little upset. Still - on the brighter side, I cant wait for tomorrow to start when I will finally land in Prague - (touchwood)!!!