Hitchhiking to Pienza, Tuscany

“Yes... I hike to Pienza...it take around an hour from here...”, said Claudia, who was stretched out on the sun bed, lounging under the lazy evening sun, with her palms shading her eye from the sun as she looked up to me. “Really?”, I asked and she says “Si, Si”. I wasn’t so sure, but if it was an hour’s hike one way, it didn’t sound too bad... And that is how i found myself hiking to Pienza on one day in Tuscany. But, boy, had she underestimated the time or I had underestimated her... definitely the former I think!

It was a great morning... the sun not strong still and a nice cool breeze... An hour later, I had just reached the crossroad leading to Pienza... and guess what???? The signboard was showing another good 10kms away... (note to self, if it looks far, it probably is! And have the sense to double check!!).

On the way to Pienza

The weather was still good, I was enjoying fantastic views... but soon the sun would be blazing down on me... and I had to pick up my speed. Plus, all the photography was slowing down, (yes, I was trying to get some timer snaps of myself with the landscape... lame, right??). I was tiring myself out a bit, and also partly dreaming of the previous day when I too had lounged on a sun bed in the balcony, with a book and little else to do... But it wasn’t until I came really close to the town, I gave up hope!!! You see, all these towns are perched on hilltops, and the last leg is the hardest...

And up went my hand, sticking out a thumb for a ride...

An abandoned farm house?

A young couple in a car... they wave to me, but won’t stop

A family... this time no wave even!

A slightly beaten up car and a little hippy looking old couple... but there was a lady... so thumbs up again....Voila! they pull over and I am very, very, very grateful (cannot overstate it enough!!!)... we chat a bit , and they are quite cool!!! They speak very good English, couldn’t yet figure out if they are settled here or on vacation...The lady does warn me that she see’s many tourists doing “this” and says, it’s not safe... before I can figure out if she means the long hike in the midday sun or just the hitchhiking, we are in Pienza.

After a bit of a search for the food, I have one of the MOST DELICIOUS ravioli’s in my LIFE!!!! Only 3 piece of the pillow pasta, in a bed of olive oil rather than the usual cream sauce... my first thought was dismay at the paltry portions, but it was Yummmy and also filling!!!

yummm!

Emboldened by my first hitchhiking experience, I decide to do that on my way back too...

My first ride is an old Italian man in a beat up car...I was a bit tired, and lowered by rules a bit (of ensuring at least one woman in the car. He was old, so I let it go...). He spoke only Italian, I spoke only English and well, he rattled on. He did pat me on my knees a couple of times as he discoursed on heartily... (having seen some Italian men, would definitely NOT believe it was grandfatherly)... Anyways, I was a little relieved to get off.

My last ride was a biker...I later realized he wasn’t even going the way I needed to go, but took the trouble. He owned a farm nearby too and we chatted a bit (as much as you can with the wind howling as you race through). It was wonderful racing down those roads on a bike, with the wind in your hair, refreshing me after a hot, sweaty day.

And I was home!

A note of caution: Hitchhiking was a fun experience, something I didn’t plan for, but happened. Sorry to sound like a grandmother and be melodramaitc, but I CANNOT OVEREMPHASIZE enough ON SAFETY OVER ADVENTURE any day. Hitchhiking can be fun, but please, please be careful!

The Tuscan slopes... you haven't heard the last of it!


Views along the way


Views along the way


Views along the way

What a rollercoaster ride!!!

I started this year with a lot of optimism (no particular reason, just a general feeling of goodness)...then some news that what I had been hoping for wasn't happening and taking me to a dark dark place.. and then fate turning tables and winds of change... which then simmered down to barely a breeze or not even! has been a roller coaster 3 months, I am worried about the remainder!!!

Still, the doors open yet again, and I wait!!!

Sorry for such cryptic writing, but the story will unravel soon!

Searching for the best Neapolitan in town

Everty time I start to think I need to catch up on my posts on my Italy trip last year, I don’t know why, but I get this huge writer’s block. There is so much to tell and I don’t know where to start –that’s the trouble with long trips, I guess. I have an abyssimal 2 posts... So I am starting with 3 random experiences....or less, depending on when my word count runs out of steam.

* * *

One evening in Naples, we set off in search of the best Neapolitan pizza in Naples. We were recommended to Il Presidente in the centro storico (city center). The road was narrow, and quite deserted, but the Pizzeria was buzzing with people spilling out into the roads. It seemed a bit like Bade miaan (for those who are familiar with Mumbai).

As we queued up, we got a terribly huge token number. We first tried to find out how long that may be – everyone around us spoke only Italian, and we spoke only English. The token-giver would answer emphatically in a string of Italian with so much gusto that it could have been an ebullient answer just as it could have easily been a string of curses. Next we tried to enquire what pizzas were available in a mix of mime, English all in between sheepish laughter. The token-giver would reply and we would spend the next 10 minutes deciphering it. This went on for a bit. At some point, I think he understood what we were asking and made some reference to the pizzeria not being McD’s. We could hear the group around us breaking into laughter. We were lost – for the first time, ordering a pizza seemed like the most complicated thing.

We then tried to ask him if we could do a take away and he kept waving his hands and saying dopo, dopo. So far it had sounded like he was just being a loud, expressive man, and suddenly we wondered if he was insulting us – what with his multiple referrences to McD and him shooing us away. We were embarrassed slowly moving to being on the brink of serious frustration. And just like that my friend was suddenly incensed! We decided we didn't want the best pizza that bad after all if they couldn't even help us decently! And just like that we walked off in a huff!!!

So much for the perfect pizza!

Don’t worry.... in the last one hour on our last day, we decided we needed to give one more shot at having a true Neapolitan. We tracked down the second recommendation given to us – Da Michelle - which was spartan, white and almost like a hospital cafeteria in looks. Here, they serve only 2 types of pizzas (the Neapolitan and Margherita). We ordered the double cheese margherita , lightly flavoured in basil and oozing olive oil.... truly divine!!!

We later found out, the Dopo, dopo may have just meant later later!

Naples is considered the home of Pizza. The Neapolitan is particularly known for also the tomato toppings that goes on pizza (I understand). Both Il Presidente and Da Michelle are recommended in the lonely planet. Da Michelle is also the pizzeria featured in the Eat Pray Love movie.

PS: I swear, there were supposed to be 3... but will rein in word count on the next 2!

PS 2: Yes, I did put on a few kilos after the trip!!!

The crowds outside Da Michelle

A divine margherita

And so, we did a takeaway and ate by the roadside

Of Spanish and other new things this year

It’s ridiculous how excited I felt to be enrolling for Spanish classes last week. I haven’t felt so enthusiastic about something like this a long time. I was worried if I would go through with it – considering, it is 3 hours on Saturday and 3 hours on Sunday early morn. But the moment I entered the school, I had a good feeling. One of my classmates candidly confessed that she needed to “do something more with her life” other than work et al, and there was a moment of relief and I almost broke out laughing, thinking that was exactly what was running through my head.

So this year is all about reclaiming my life (oh well, yes Getting A Life!). To put myself out there, try new things and meet (new) people! It’s not going to be easy – even as I resolve to do all this, I have been doing 14 hour work days and have been on a race against time which leaves me aching for an overdose of sleep– and it is still January! But, I persist! (And made it to my early morning Sunday class). So wish me luck.

Some Spanish and un-spanish thoughts...
1. It seems my name will never be the same again in Europe - Nee-ra-ha (Spanish) or Nee-ra-ya (German) - is only slightly better than my classmate’s Poo-ha!
2. I feel cheated of one Spanish speaking country cos I found Portugese is what is common in Brazil! (No, I didn’t Know).
3. Siente mi fuego – is the phrase I love. It means ‘feel my fire’ (after translating R Kelly’s Burn it up, and not at all sure of the grammar). Also love, Quedate conmigo – ‘stay with me’ (Enrique’s Bailamos). Bailamos is dance, Baila la calle is dancing in the streets...
4. I was the only one to fantasize about my profession – I was a bailarina for a few moments when introducing myself.

Saying some goodbyes... a girls road trip to Sula

I was wondering, just for a moment, if I should make a blogging resolution this year... but sometimes you just know a lost cause, even without trying. As you can see, its 3 weeks since new years and I am still on my ‘bye 2010, hola 2011’ post!!! Anyways, 2010 had some surprises in terms of trips – including 5 days to NY , some 5 weeks in vacation (with quite a good number of holidays still in stock, not to worry!)...

Not all of my trips and all that I’ve wanted to write about have made it to this blog in the last couple of years- but at least, not for the lack of travel and I am happy for that. So here is hoping for more travel, at least some changes, and hopefully more blogging in 2011!!!

* * *

A bottle of Sula

2010 was a year of change... not so much for me, but many of my friends, what with people moving to other countries, people going off to study, people changing their jobs yes, I am still here, 4 years on, doing exactly the same thing, in the same city!!!). So when R (my closest friend from work ) was leaving Mumbai to study, we all decided an all-girls trip was in order and we chose Sula. We had a car, hired a driver (yes, we didn’t want the responsibility of driving) and the trip was on. Surprise, surprise, it was also the last trip with another one of us, P, quitting a few months later on.

My last trip to Sula was on a hot, dry day in February. This time it was a rainy, rainy July day and the landscape had slipped into its monsoon wear in lush greens. Sula has made several additions to its property since the last time was here – such as a couple of restaurant including my favourite Little Italy (the previous time we had to make do with pineapple-and-cheese starters although we were starving) – so now, you can have a nice heavy lunch, feel lazy and drowsy, hit the tasting room and just relax-and-be as you watch the evening slip into night. However, I wonder if it was the monsoon season (which spurs so many Bombayites to make a day of it in the Ghats) because the tasting room was quite crowded and bustling. I missed being the only group and having the balcony all to ourselves!

Someone else who managed to be having a relaxing, deep in thought moment out at the tasting room !

There are many other wine tasting options beyond Sula – our search revealed Tiger, and one Chateau d’Ori. So you can actually make a good weekend hitting 2 or 3 off these. One thing I was disappointed was with the lack of stay options – if you are on a wine trail, you WANT to stay in some LOVELY RUMBLING FARMHOUSE on the property (and No, I hadn’t been to Italy by then!). There is a Tiger resort (lukewarm reviews). Sula has a gorgeous looking villa, but you need a good group size. The other option is to stay in main-town Nashik, which is what we did at The Gateway at %K per night.

Some wine tasting options here. And Sula Wines here.

The crowd bustling on the balcony

A view of the vineyards