To the roof of Africa... Climbing Mt.Kilimanjaro

The view of Kibo peak, Mt Kilimanjaro from the clouds

‘It was excruciatingly spectacular’, she said. Her group had just ascended to the top – some made it, and some did not.

And EXCRUCIATING it was. Especially the last 100 or 200metres or so, when the goal post is in sight, so close, yet so far, and requiring you to squeeze every ounce of your will power. The challenge with the Kili is mostly on the night when you attempt the summit – depending on the route, you needed to climb at least 900m in altitude at a stretch to get to the top and none of the preceding days truly prepare you for it. The distance of 4Kms is one of the shortest distances on the trail, but ends up being the longest. You climb less than you think you have and there is more to go than you think should be. Physical endurance is key, but it is also very much a test of mental strength and will power to keep going. I recalled the girl saying, ‘you will think you can go no more, but push, and push. Crawl if you have to’.

When I got to the top, all I could think was, ‘the view is ok! but oh god, I still have a 2-3 hour descent in front of me’. Low oxygen and tiredness together can play havoc on your spirits. It was only a day later, when we were done with the whole trail, and seeing the outline of the Kilimanjaro against the evening sky, that it hit me – Yes, I had climbed the Kili!!! I had actually been to the top of that daunting, gigantic mountain!!! I couldn’t stop smiling silly for a long time.

The Kilimanjaro has 6 routes to get to the top of the mountain, which is a crater. Depending on the route, you will hit the top at Gilman’s point (5681m) or Stella’s point (5756m). Walking along the rim of the crater from these points, you can reach the highest point of Kilimajaro at Uhuru peak (5895m). Machame is considered one of the most scenic, but we had chosen Rongai as it is considered slightly easier.

Cold, runny-nosed (I was), and thoroughly exhausted, but we made it to Gilman’s at around 8AM in the morning. Getting all the way to Uhuru was a personal aspiration, but when I did get to the crater, I knew I wouldn’t be going forward. Just the thought of coming down alone seemed arduous and I just didn’t have the will to push myself. My friend A however, did plod on and made it to Uhuru.

Climbing Kili has been a fulfilling experience in a way I never expected it to be. Some times, when I need to push myself - may be for running the extra mile a day or even trying new interests, I find myself asking the question what’s the point of it all? (that is my excuse for laziness). WELL, may be the point is simply in the challenge and the thrill in accomplishing something beyond your existing abilities, rather than any larger than life revelation from the activity itself . I didn't set out on this trek as a way to challenge myself, but there was a satisfaction in pushing myself. And in all this, I’ve re-kindled some forgotten love and probably found new aspirations for the future too, and for that I am thankful!

A lot of people, after the trip ask you if will come back to climb the Kili again. It was hard to answer truthfully at that point (ha, ha I still was wondering what madness had possessed me to it), but I do hope I will sometime again, and may be this time will reach Uhuru too.

At Gilman's point
photo by Raven

Ten days for Tanzania...

Actually less than ten, but it rings well. Yes, that is where I am headed and although I say it out loud here, and when I tell friends, there is a definite smile that creeps into my face, it still doesn't feel really real yet! Early this year, as a part of a project I had researched 15 African countries... I still remember the one company slide on Tanzania featuring the Kilimanjaro, Serengeti and Zanzibar... I knew I wanted to go one day, glad the day has arrived this soon!

So, its me, R of Sikkim and Eastern Europe fame and R's boyfriend. Yes, I agree, I too don't know how I find myself in such groups! (ha, ha, just kidding). Anyways, I usually don't post much before a trip, but given I'll probably never get around to it after.... so here comes a pre-trip update.

The itinerary?
1) Scaling the Kili - 8 days - We are flying into Kilimanjaro, and for the first couple of days will be camping at Moshi which is the nearest town/city. We need a couple of days to pick out some of the hiking equipment and then we are off. There are about 6 routes to hike the Kili and we've chosen a slightly not so popular, but considered kinda easy route - the Rongai. The Kilimanjaro is the tallest peak in Africa and a part of the seven summits (i.e. tallest summits in each continent) and its highest point reaches about 5,895mts. Altitude sickness is going to be the challenge here and the last day of scaling to the summit and the Uhuru peak sounds scary! Keeping fingers crossed and hoping for the best.

2) 5 days in national parks for game viewing - we will be touching Serengeti, Ngorongoro, lake Manyara amongst others. We are taking the camping option which works much much cheaper that wildlife lodges.

3) Zanzibar - this is our last and final stop, and we get a couple of days here. Zanzibar famous for its spice markets of by gone days has a mysterious feel to it. Will probably unwind here before we return home.

Unlike the usual heavy duty research I do for my long trips, I haven't done much this time. As usual, R, has taken charge of making decisions (which I hate), so we have some plans in place and she continues to keep me updated on to-do's and to-not-do's.

Travel agent?
We are planning to use Gladys who has so far been quite helpful with our queries and are also know for their equipment hire. More after we get there!

Trip preparation...?

1) Bought hiking boots last week... supposed to have got it and broken into it 2 months back. Just starting to now! While trekking in Ladakh, we managed with regular sneakers, so I was convinced that this was more a marketing ploy. But in the interest of my ankles....

2) Winter wear - coming from India, dressing up for the cold weather is an ordeal and is usually wearing a sweater on top of another and emerging like Santa. Learning the tricks of layering. Finally! Also, found this fantastic website which has some pretty good deals on winter wear - www.sierratradingpost.com... I also recommend going to any adventure outfitter in your city and they can give you a pretty good idea of what you need to get depending on the destination.

3) Vaccinations - yellow fever is needed when you arrive in Tanzania and more importantly, when you return to Singapore. Typhoid and Hepatitis A are recommended... but India was also marked as high risk for HA, so figured i shd be immune :). Those in Singapore, head to Tan Teok Seng hospital in Novena where they have travelers vaccination clinic - very efficient and helpful!
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4) Visa - Tanzania is visa on arrival for Indians if your country doesnt have an embassy (Singapore doesn't have one)

5) Other than which, stay in reasonable shape for the Kili. The hardest thing is usually managing altitude sickness and there is no real way to prepare for that it seems, but being in decent shape with regular work outs helps!

So thats it for the moment... restless, excited and CANNOT wait!!!

~N

PS: edited the post to correct the height of Mt.Kilimanjaro!