Where the mountains come alive...Everest base camp

I've been writing and re-writing this post over and over again, on paper and in my head, in a want to re-capture the moment into a perfect flow. Truth is, the moment was a whirl of emotions and thoughts all hitting me at the same time. So it is probably right that I leave this post loosely knit I suppose, as I work through it - more for myself more than anything else.

Everest base camp

Hope! It was this word on flag that caught my eye first on reaching the milestones wrapped in prayer flags and dedications that mark ‘you are here at the Everest base camp’. A simple message, yet such a powerful, and moving one and especially to find it here, in what feels like a remote, hostile, no-man's land. Isn't that what makes us all tick at the end of the day? the hope for a better day, hope for love and happiness, hope for money which we think could lead to happiness, hope for a better world even maybe, hope to be a better person, hopefully? It was a dedication to 2 climbers who lost their lives... not a message of glory or achievement or ambition or courage...just hope! It was beautiful and moving.

We had been seeing dramatic mountains all along the trip, since we left Namche at some 3000-odd metres; but somehow, just there, at that moment, they seemed even more dramatic, even more harsh, yet even more glorious and most of all, alive. Like a breathing presence you could feel. Like a force to give in to. Many of us make our pilgrimages, sometimes in search of something greater than us. And for me this place, that moment, these mountains have been the closest that has come to that. I felt insignificant, not in a bad way, but in way that throws larger perspective on some of the smaller trials of lives I suppose. Everything before this was worth it, to have simply gotten to this point.

I am not entirely sure why it was this charged or intense. I remember feeling exhausted and questioning my sanity when I got to the crater top of Kili. I had to get off the mountain to realise the joy of the climb. And here I was pondering on the philosophical and profound. Maybe it was the height catching up with me after all.

Around me, people were elated... everyone was taking turns with rocks to get photos with the base camp site in the backdrop, another memory to lock away for the future. There was that girl who I had seen struggling up, holding up messages on placards for her photos, probably to send to her family and friends. We had fared the altitude and had made it after 8 days of trekking through sun, rain, painful-freeze-us-to-the-bone winds, cold and even snow. Of course, there were those for who this was just the prelude. They would be spending the next 30-40 days here and in even higher altitudes and worser conditions as they attempted to summit Mt.Everest. Part of me was awe struck by them, but part of me doesn't fully understand. I thought of some of those whom we met on the trek - some traveling by themselves to explore these mountains, some 50-60 year olds I wouldn't have imagined in these parts if I had met them on the road on an ordinary day, but still with dreams and to-do lists. Some families with kids to share this experience together. I thought of my family, of life and very many random things which come back to you in the oddest of times I suppose. But it felt good. It felt damn good to have made it here.

Everest base camp

To the roof of Africa... Climbing Mt.Kilimanjaro

The view of Kibo peak, Mt Kilimanjaro from the clouds

‘It was excruciatingly spectacular’, she said. Her group had just ascended to the top – some made it, and some did not.

And EXCRUCIATING it was. Especially the last 100 or 200metres or so, when the goal post is in sight, so close, yet so far, and requiring you to squeeze every ounce of your will power. The challenge with the Kili is mostly on the night when you attempt the summit – depending on the route, you needed to climb at least 900m in altitude at a stretch to get to the top and none of the preceding days truly prepare you for it. The distance of 4Kms is one of the shortest distances on the trail, but ends up being the longest. You climb less than you think you have and there is more to go than you think should be. Physical endurance is key, but it is also very much a test of mental strength and will power to keep going. I recalled the girl saying, ‘you will think you can go no more, but push, and push. Crawl if you have to’.

When I got to the top, all I could think was, ‘the view is ok! but oh god, I still have a 2-3 hour descent in front of me’. Low oxygen and tiredness together can play havoc on your spirits. It was only a day later, when we were done with the whole trail, and seeing the outline of the Kilimanjaro against the evening sky, that it hit me – Yes, I had climbed the Kili!!! I had actually been to the top of that daunting, gigantic mountain!!! I couldn’t stop smiling silly for a long time.

The Kilimanjaro has 6 routes to get to the top of the mountain, which is a crater. Depending on the route, you will hit the top at Gilman’s point (5681m) or Stella’s point (5756m). Walking along the rim of the crater from these points, you can reach the highest point of Kilimajaro at Uhuru peak (5895m). Machame is considered one of the most scenic, but we had chosen Rongai as it is considered slightly easier.

Cold, runny-nosed (I was), and thoroughly exhausted, but we made it to Gilman’s at around 8AM in the morning. Getting all the way to Uhuru was a personal aspiration, but when I did get to the crater, I knew I wouldn’t be going forward. Just the thought of coming down alone seemed arduous and I just didn’t have the will to push myself. My friend A however, did plod on and made it to Uhuru.

Climbing Kili has been a fulfilling experience in a way I never expected it to be. Some times, when I need to push myself - may be for running the extra mile a day or even trying new interests, I find myself asking the question what’s the point of it all? (that is my excuse for laziness). WELL, may be the point is simply in the challenge and the thrill in accomplishing something beyond your existing abilities, rather than any larger than life revelation from the activity itself . I didn't set out on this trek as a way to challenge myself, but there was a satisfaction in pushing myself. And in all this, I’ve re-kindled some forgotten love and probably found new aspirations for the future too, and for that I am thankful!

A lot of people, after the trip ask you if will come back to climb the Kili again. It was hard to answer truthfully at that point (ha, ha I still was wondering what madness had possessed me to it), but I do hope I will sometime again, and may be this time will reach Uhuru too.

At Gilman's point
photo by Raven

Defying definition...

... somewhat like state of life at the moment. Love this line from Monalisa Smile. Not all who wander are aimless. Especially not those who seek truth beyond tradition, beyond definition, beyond the image.

Been obsessed with un-focused photos, the lack of definition adding a hint of mystery, I think. Singapore ablaze in night lights on the walk from work to home. Can you place them???

Bridge over the Singapore river, near Fullerton


From Boat Quay to Clark Quay


Clark Quay with bungee jumping on the right


View across Clark Quay



At the signal opposite to MICA

Sunset in Zanzibar

Walking back slowly from Stone town along the water front, navigating through the evening crowds, recording every moment of this last evening, her only aim being to get back to her hostel before it became too dark, what with all the hostel warnings about it not being too safe at nights.

And once again, she was struck by how much the scene in front of her felt like home – the sharp smell of the sea in the air, the waves rising high and splashing spray all over the pavement, families, friends and lovers sitting along the waterfront, in the park seats and under the trees, in conversation or just watching the sea, a bunch of young boys appearing to have some contest in jumping off the pavement into the water, vendors in the Forodhani market peddling food of every variety for the stomach willing to chance it...

As she waved through the crowds, watching the scene ahead of her, it suddenly struck her the time for the sunset wasn’t far away. Putting aside her fear of getting late, she raced to find a spot to catch the first one for the year.

There is something about being in a place so far removed from the regularity of everyday life, lost in the anonymity of the crowds, where you could suddenly be anyone, anything you wanted to be. The vacation was coming to an end, but the memories would stay. There was hope in the air, and a feeling that anything was possible… a sense of new beginnings. New year or not. ;)

Catching the sunset at Forodhani water front, Zanzibar

Stone Town

Ten days for Tanzania...

Actually less than ten, but it rings well. Yes, that is where I am headed and although I say it out loud here, and when I tell friends, there is a definite smile that creeps into my face, it still doesn't feel really real yet! Early this year, as a part of a project I had researched 15 African countries... I still remember the one company slide on Tanzania featuring the Kilimanjaro, Serengeti and Zanzibar... I knew I wanted to go one day, glad the day has arrived this soon!

So, its me, R of Sikkim and Eastern Europe fame and R's boyfriend. Yes, I agree, I too don't know how I find myself in such groups! (ha, ha, just kidding). Anyways, I usually don't post much before a trip, but given I'll probably never get around to it after.... so here comes a pre-trip update.

The itinerary?
1) Scaling the Kili - 8 days - We are flying into Kilimanjaro, and for the first couple of days will be camping at Moshi which is the nearest town/city. We need a couple of days to pick out some of the hiking equipment and then we are off. There are about 6 routes to hike the Kili and we've chosen a slightly not so popular, but considered kinda easy route - the Rongai. The Kilimanjaro is the tallest peak in Africa and a part of the seven summits (i.e. tallest summits in each continent) and its highest point reaches about 5,895mts. Altitude sickness is going to be the challenge here and the last day of scaling to the summit and the Uhuru peak sounds scary! Keeping fingers crossed and hoping for the best.

2) 5 days in national parks for game viewing - we will be touching Serengeti, Ngorongoro, lake Manyara amongst others. We are taking the camping option which works much much cheaper that wildlife lodges.

3) Zanzibar - this is our last and final stop, and we get a couple of days here. Zanzibar famous for its spice markets of by gone days has a mysterious feel to it. Will probably unwind here before we return home.

Unlike the usual heavy duty research I do for my long trips, I haven't done much this time. As usual, R, has taken charge of making decisions (which I hate), so we have some plans in place and she continues to keep me updated on to-do's and to-not-do's.

Travel agent?
We are planning to use Gladys who has so far been quite helpful with our queries and are also know for their equipment hire. More after we get there!

Trip preparation...?

1) Bought hiking boots last week... supposed to have got it and broken into it 2 months back. Just starting to now! While trekking in Ladakh, we managed with regular sneakers, so I was convinced that this was more a marketing ploy. But in the interest of my ankles....

2) Winter wear - coming from India, dressing up for the cold weather is an ordeal and is usually wearing a sweater on top of another and emerging like Santa. Learning the tricks of layering. Finally! Also, found this fantastic website which has some pretty good deals on winter wear - www.sierratradingpost.com... I also recommend going to any adventure outfitter in your city and they can give you a pretty good idea of what you need to get depending on the destination.

3) Vaccinations - yellow fever is needed when you arrive in Tanzania and more importantly, when you return to Singapore. Typhoid and Hepatitis A are recommended... but India was also marked as high risk for HA, so figured i shd be immune :). Those in Singapore, head to Tan Teok Seng hospital in Novena where they have travelers vaccination clinic - very efficient and helpful!
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4) Visa - Tanzania is visa on arrival for Indians if your country doesnt have an embassy (Singapore doesn't have one)

5) Other than which, stay in reasonable shape for the Kili. The hardest thing is usually managing altitude sickness and there is no real way to prepare for that it seems, but being in decent shape with regular work outs helps!

So thats it for the moment... restless, excited and CANNOT wait!!!

~N

PS: edited the post to correct the height of Mt.Kilimanjaro!